New York fashion week style lessons, from Ella Emhoff’s modelling debut to the return of boho-luxe

Ella Emhoff, stepdaughter of US Vice President Kamala Harris, makes her modelling debut for Proenza Schouler - Proenza Schouler

Ella Emhoff, stepdaughter of US Vice President Kamala Harris, makes her modelling debut for Proenza Schouler – Proenza Schouler

Despite a ragged turn-out by big names, there were some rays of hope at New York fashion week, which came to an end on Thursday. Re-branded the American Collections by an exhausted-looking Tom Ford via a publicised Zoom call on the final day of proceedings, the designer postponed his presentation due to a Covid outbreak at his LA studio. The CFDA (Council of Fashion Designers of America) chief promised faithfully to return to New York in September though.

Meanwhile, Ralph Lauren, Carolina Herrera, Oscar de la Renta and Marc Jacobs all opted out of NYFW’s scheduled week. Yet bold, beautiful offerings still shook us home-front-row journalists awake, with Gabriela Hearst and Ulla Johnson stealing the crowns from the old-school absentees.

Hearst and Johnson showed digital presentations similar in scope and model

Read More

Ella Emhoff Makes Her Runway Debut at New York Fashion Week

Ella Emhoff, the step-daughter of Kamala Harris, brought very important (and stylish) mullet representation to the Proenza Schouler digital show on the last day of New York Fashion Week. The Parsons student, presidential inauguration breakout star, and newly-signed IMG model was fairly low-key in her runway debut, though her mere presence in the show will clearly draw attention. Her presence was somewhat of a surprise, but not entirely out of nowhere: she spoke on a NYFW panel with Proenza founders Jack McCollugh and Lazaro Hernandez on Wednesday.

Emhoff had previously told the New York Times that she hoped “to bring a bit of Bushwick into the high fashion realm,” referring to her home in one of the most rapidly-gentrifying neighborhoods in the country. And during the Proenza show she certainly embodied the aesthetic of a monied cool person. The pieces were all made in that minimalist,

Read More

Reality Bites at New York Fashion Week, Alongside a Lot of Fantasy

New York Men’s Day

New York Men’s Day continued its mission to highlight the future of menswear. Several designers stood out in particular, namely Chelsea Grays, STAN, and Timo Weiland.

Chelsea Grays’ collection was an homage to 2020 with references to police brutality, protesting, coronavirus, and voting. There was a rugged, dystopian approach to the clothing—Mad Max: Fury Road meets high fashion streetwear.

Designer Tristan Detwiler of STAN created a genderless collection based around quilting. Detwiler, who is a member of The Bumann Quilting group, an organization dedicated to the art of preserving quilting, created maximalist pattern garments that were ripe with the history of generations of quilters.

Timo Weiland created an aesthetic of polished leisure fit for a Zoom call, but still comfortable for home. While some might think any reason to dress up is lost, Weiland reminded us that formality has just taken a new approach.

Read More

Michael Kors Is Leaving New York Fashion Week and Will Not Be Having a Runway Show

NEW YORK, NY - SEPTEMBER 12: Designer Michael Kors walks the runway during the Michael Kors Collection Spring 2019 Runway Show at Pier 17 on September 12, 2018 in New York City. (Photo by JP Yim/Getty Images for Michael Kors)
NEW YORK, NY – SEPTEMBER 12: Designer Michael Kors walks the runway during the Michael Kors Collection Spring 2019 Runway Show at Pier 17 on September 12, 2018 in New York City. (Photo by JP Yim/Getty Images for Michael Kors)

Michael Kors is the latest designer to opt out of New York Fashion Week for the upcoming season in September. In the past, Michael Kors’s shows have often opened the final day of shows in NYC, but all of that has changed due to COVID-19 and the fashion community wanting a more consumer-focused format for Fashion Week. Now, the designer will be joining the likes of Gucci, and he is rethinking the brand’s Fashion Week structure.

In a statement, the designer stated: “I have for a long time thought that the fashion calendar needs to change. It’s exciting for me to see the open dialogue within the fashion community

Read More