If the fall 2021 shows prove anything, it’s that emotion and poetry are back. At Louis Vuitton, Nicolas Ghesquière, a designer who popularized total-look style with his stylist Marie-Amélie Sauvé in the aughts and teens, pivoted to a more melange look, coupling tulle skirts with hoodies, crystal embroideries with leather jackets, and poet tops with mannish blazers. Over at Ghesquière’s alma mater Balenciaga, Demna Gvasalia continues to reflect true street style back at his customers, playing up strange, sometimes surreal, pairings like medieval armor with jeans and sweatpants. Julien Dossena’s Paco Rabanne collection was glitzy in a real way, slip dresses with boyish coats and fluffy kerchiefs. Marine Serre’s upcycled tartans look more like the way real people might clash plaids than the refined Prince of Wales checks popular in the early 2010s. Collina Strada styled its collection in the vein of its designer, Hillary Taymour, while Ibrahim Kamara, arguably
Fashionistas will have to log on to soak up the glamour at Milan Fashion Week, which remains online a year after the coronavirus first swept into northern Italy.
No sharply dressed crowds will attend the extravaganza’s opening on Wednesday: it’s virtual catwalk shows only, with the likes of Armani and Prada presenting new women’s collections for autumn and winter 2021-22.
The word “coronavirus” was just starting to pop up in conversations among members of the global style elite as they gathered for the February 2020 edition of Milan Fashion Week.
Italy’s first outbreak was taking hold in Codogno, an hour’s drive away. That
For a long time now, fashion week hasn’t just been about the people wearing the clothes on the catwalk, but it’s been just as much about the people off the runway too. Unless you’ve attended a fashion show, it’s really hard to grasp just how much of a circus whole street style thing is, and while the legendary Suzy Menkes might dislike it, I’ve come to accept that it is part of the fun of fashion week and a joy to see so many people enjoying fashion.
Arguably started with the likes of the late great Bill Cunningham and then continued by Scott Schuman’s Sartorialist, Tommy Ton and Phil Oh, it really kicked up a gear over the past 10 years, in part, thanks to Instagram. But that would be putting it too simply. While there are now scores of people posing outside fashion shows, there are the OG fashion
Despite a ragged turn-out by big names, there were some rays of hope at New York fashion week, which came to an end on Thursday. Re-branded the American Collections by an exhausted-looking Tom Ford via a publicised Zoom call on the final day of proceedings, the designer postponed his presentation due to a Covid outbreak at his LA studio. The CFDA (Council of Fashion Designers of America) chief promised faithfully to return to New York in September though.
Meanwhile, Ralph Lauren, Carolina Herrera, Oscar de la Renta and Marc Jacobs all opted out of NYFW’s scheduled week. Yet bold, beautiful offerings still shook us home-front-row journalists awake, with Gabriela Hearst and Ulla Johnson stealing the crowns from the old-school absentees.
Hearst and Johnson showed digital presentations similar in scope and model